Isabela (Albemarle)

This 1,800sqft island is the largest and most volcanically active island in the archipelago, Isabella, can be accessed directly from Santa Cruz, by boat from Puerto Ayora (8 hours to get to Isabella via Florena; about 4 hours to return) or by plane from Baltra (30 minutes). Puerto Villamil, Isabella''s main town is a much mellower version of Puerto Ayora and the most popular port after Puerto Ayora to hang out in a hammock and watch the boobies fly by. True to island attitude, expect only the most basic tourist accommodations, restaurants and bars.

The Island is more than 100km long, very narrow and was created by the lava of 6 volcanoes flowing together. Some of them are as high as 1,700m (5,600ft). The Sierra Negra Volcano has the second largest crater in the world, measuring 10km (6 miles) in diameter. There are various sites to visit around the island.

A two-day trek up Alcedo Volcano will lead you to some of the last of the wild tortoises found in the islands.

In the north of Isabela there is a small promontory known as Punta Vicente Roca, on the southwestern edge of Volcano Ecuador. The point presides over a pair of jewel-like coves. The coves lie on either side of the eroded remains of a volcanic ash cone, which make up the point. The sheltered bay is a popular anchorage for boats and visitors may have a look around in dinghies. The surrounding cliffs are actually the interior walls of a fallen volcano and there is a partly flooded cave.

The area is also very good for scuba diving. Its abundant ocean life is the product of cool, nutrient-rich waters up welling off the volcano''s steep submarine slopes. On the other side of the point is a secluded cove, accessible from the sea only through water-filled subterranean passages. Sea lions travel through these passageways and gather on the protected beaches of the hidden waters. Large numbers of blue-footed and masked boobies inhabit the point and the sheer cliffs, and flightless cormorants can be seen along the shoreline. Well-known sites on Isabella are Targus Cove, Elisabeth Bay, Las Tintoreras and Urvina Bay.

Targus Cove: This was a favourite site of pirates and early whalers, who left their ship names and historical graffiti carved on the high cliff. You can go ashore and visit a saltwater lagoon and the lava fields of Darwin Volcano. You will also have magnificent views over the ocean. Go along the cliffs with a launch and see the exclusive Galapagos penguins, the flightless cormorants and many other sea birds.

Elisabeth Bay: Located on Isabela´s west shore, this is extremely interesting for observing marine life. You can motor or kayak past a few islands where you usually see penguins. One of the best areas to take their photos. Through a small passage lined with mangroves you emerge into an enclosed cove. Turn your motor off and look in the sheltered waters for marine turtles, rays, flightless cormorants and others. Las Tintoreras: Here you can observe the white tipped shark. It needs only a 5 min drive in a dinghy from Port Villamil. There is also a trail that allows you to see other plants and animals.